In Western Civilization linen was the most important material made from plant fibres, from ancient times until the end of the 18th Century. Finds of archaic linen seeds in Iraq and in southeastern Turkey show that wild linen Linum bienne was cultivated as early as 9000 years ago. The living and the dead of Egypt were, for thousands of years, wrapped in linen. A rich heiroglyphic history exists, depicting the growing of flax, retting, spinning, and weaving as well as the treatment and dyeing of linen cloths. The Swiss Lake Dwellers began their cultivation of Linen more than 2000 years before the time of Christ. It is peculiar that linen was worked in these ancient times at all, for the culture and production of flax fibre is no easy feat and tells us something of mankind's early technical skill. Throughout the Middle Ages and the Rennaissaince linen remained an important agricultural product and only in the beginning of the 19th Century did cotton begin to replace flax in its many industrial uses.
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Linen grows to 120cm. Its short fibres are found in the stem. Bound together end to end and into bundles by pectin, linen fibres form strands 60 to 90cm long. Linen is extremely rip-resistant but not particularly flexible. For the finest of fibres, the green plant is harvested following its flowering period. When left untill golden, middle-ripe, linen gives stronger fibres and rougher textiles. Completely ripe and dried when harvested, linen fibre is only useful for ropes and sackcloth. The extreme parallel order of flax fibres in their bundles gives linen fabric a characteristic wrinkle. |
Linenfiber |
With the growth of the cotton industry and the advent of synthetic fibres, linen has lost signifigance in the modern economy but in terms of Ecological agriculture in Europe linen can play an important role. With the rediscovery of this crop many problems have been encountered. Inside the lifespan of one generation, many cultures have lost their knowlege and expertise with linen. Linen is easily overgrown with weeds, is susceptible to infection from disease. Additionally, linen requires particular soil and nutrient conditions; crop rotations of up to seven years are sometimes necessary. Variations in fibre quality and an outdated payment system for farmers make the culture of linen a risky undertaking. Despite it's high demands and low-value yield, many EU countries are looking into how to revive these traditional industries as part of an healthy regional eco-agribusiness.
Linum ussisatissimum |
Linum usitatissimum L.
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Seed linen or linseed
Also known as Linum usitatissimum, seed linen has been selected ofer the millenia for larger seed heads and compact plants which can support their ripenning weight. Seed linen plants are generally smaller than 80cm and need warmer climates for the seeds to ripen. India, Argentinia, the USA and Canada are major seedlinen growers.